When it comes to the best affordable chronograph for small wrists, there’s only one winner. As a matter of fact, there is really only one player.
The truth is, chronographs aren’t meant to be worn small. And unlike three-handers, chronographs involve additional parts and machinery – so it’s never THAT affordable. Having been a watch enthusiast for the past decade or so, the term affordable chronograph is an oxymoron. Not to mention one with a non-quartz movement; you’re looking at a minimum of $2k.
I could probably count on one hand how many chronographs I’ve bought in the past 8 years of collecting. It’s slim pickings for us with smaller wrists. But I’ve always heard of the Seagull 1963, the undeniable value-for-money chronograph with historical presence. And so many years later, I finally got myself one.
And all for USD$100? What an amazing deal.
The History Behind Seagull 1963
The Seagull 1963 is a story that started in Tianjin (天津) during the midst of the Cultural Revolution. Back then, “Seagull” was officially known as the Tianjin Watch Factory, who were mostly tasked with repairing movements. In 1955, Tianjin Watch Factory consisted of four workers, who were given 100 days and a small budget to manufacture the first Chinese-made timepiece. Sure enough, a hundred days later, the Five Stars (五星) was born.
In 1961, they were tasked with designing the official pilot watch for the Chinese Air Force. Internally, the mission was known as Project 304 and was kept confidential for various reasons. In 1963, Project 304 arrived at its finish line, and is what we know nowadays as the “1963”. It wasn’t until the 1970s when the Tianjin Watch Factory began exporting its watches globally. This gave rise to the opportunity for a name change where “Seagull” and “1963” became an official pairing.

Nowadays, the Seagull 1963 is readily available for bargain prices all over AliExpress. But bear in mind, that most of them are replicas. Not to say that they’re fake stuff, but a majority of them are not produced by Seagull themself. They’re unofficial versions have permission from Seagull, who likely supplied the same parts to them. The official ones run upwards of $600 – they’re not THAT different.
Seagull 1963 Dimensions
Case size: 38mm
Lug to lug: 47mm
Thickness: 14mm
Lug width: 18mm
Case: Mixture of brushed & polished surfaces
Dial: Sandy brown with sub-dials
Crystal: Domed acrylic crystal
Movement: ST19 hand-winding mechanical
Water Resistant: 30m / 3 ATM
Strap: Green nato & leather strap
Case
If there is one thing that beats the good ol’ Oyster case for me? It’s gotta be these vintage-style chronographs with an all-dial case. With the 1963, there is a feeling of unrefined rawness that encapsulates the case – in a totally good way. I suppose it comes down to the way each section of the case interacts with one another. There isn’t any smooth blending of edges or any special finishing on the case. Each step is clearly defined, almost pragmatic in a way.

It’s the combination of the domed acrylic crystal and the simplicity of the mid-case that does it for me. Then, you have the roundness of the case, which meets the aggressively sharp lugs that angle 45° downwards. The crown and the chrono-pushers are nicely sized, and the action feels solid for the price point.

There’s no hiding it, chronographs are typically quite tall and thick. However, the Seagull 1963 actually does a really good job of keeping it rather “slim”. At 14mm, most of the height comes from the domed acrylic crystal, and the caseback. This leaves the mid-case relatively thin, which is the difference-maker in the wearing experience.
Dial & Hands
The dial on the 1936 is one of the most unique features of the chronograph. Immediately you’ll recognize the Chinese influence with the red, blue, and yellow color scheme. The dial itself is painted in a sand-yellow color with a grainy-like texture that’s almost “spotty” when seen up close. In contrast, the minute-track and the sub-dials are subtle, painted black and extremely visible. Then, you’ve got the applied indices in gold, with the red start at the twelve. Finally, you can’t miss the painted-blue hour and minute hand, alongside the red seconds hand.

And of course, you can’t miss the Made In China (中国制造) at the 6 o’clock. One thing is for certain, the Tianjin Watch Factory made sure even a blind person could tell this was a Chinese-made timepiece. It can be a hit or miss for most folks in terms of liking the dial design. I for one don’t mind it at all, it’s got a lot of character.
ST19 Mechanical Movement
Considering the first ever Chinese-made watch (五星) was almost a part-to-part replication, the ST19 movement shares a similar history. In 1960s, there were three prominent chronograph movement companies: Venus, Valjoux, and Lemania. With chronograph technology developing rapidly, Venus needed new machinery to keep up. It just so happens they had a relatively outdated column wheel movement the Calibre 175 sitting on the shelves. So?
Venus sold their existing Calibre 175 machinery to China, which then played a major part in the confidential Project 304. Back in the modern, day, the ST19 is realistically a Venus Cal 175 with a few upgrades. It’s an old movement, but it works.

The longevity and reliability of the ST19 is a contentious topic. I’ve heard people say their 1963 stops working after messing around with the chrono pushers after a few months. On the other hand, some are still going strong after a couple of years of consistent wear. And that’s the theme here – Quality Control. It’s something that’s always going to be a hit or miss with the more affordable Chinese watches. But at this price? If it breaks, buying a brand new one would be cheaper than repair.
Comfort & Wearability
Is the Seagull 1963 thick? Yes, but does it wear thick? No. After all, it’s arguably the best affordable chronograph for small wrists. On paper, the 1963 is stated to be 14mm thick, but it wears surprisingly well on my skinny wrists. In my experience, watches that “wear” thick usually don’t contour to the wrists, and have thick, chunky cases. The Seagull 1963 doesn’t fall into this category. The 14mm thickness comes partially from the domed acrylic crystal, and the caseback. However, the mid-case itself is slim, and the lugs are thin and angle down sharply. Don’t get me wrong it’s still thick, but it doesn’t wear thick.

As for wearability, it’s definitely not a GADA (Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything), nor is it a daily wearer. With 30m of water resistance, I’d be hard-pressed to take it anywhere without first checking the weather app. The color scheme of the dial also makes it tough to style it with everyday clothing, unless you’re an Air Force pilot. The Seagull 1963 with its sharp pricing and unique style is a fun watch, and it should be treated in that manner. Chronographs are inherently fragile movements and in combination with the acrylic crystal; it’s difficult not to see it all going wrong in one night out on wrist.
Best Affordable Chronograph For Small Wrists: Buy or pass?

For $100 it’s not THAT difficult of a question to answer; nowadays a night out costs more. The Seagull 1963 is one of those watches that you just have to try for yourself. It’s like the Chinese counterpart of the Vostok Amphibia’s – affordable, classic, and a fan favorite. You simply cannot go wrong with one of these, well make sure you buy it from a relatively “reputable” AliX storefront. But other than getting a faulty 1963, there isn’t much to worry about. Sure it might break down after a year, or even 6 months, but just get a new one.
It’s no doubt the best affordable chronograph for small wrists, there isn’t any competition at this price point. So if you’re on the fence, hop off and get yourself a Seagull 1963.
Seagull 1963 Review: Closing Thoughts
Aesthetics: The 1963 certainly can be an acquired taste with the heavily Chinese-inspired dial and color schemes. However, you can’t argue it isn’t an iconic look. And while you can’t wear it as an everyday piece, it’s a watch that belongs in anyone’s collection.
Comfort: Even with the thickness, the Seagull 1963 wears comfortably even on my skinny wrists. Because of it’s lightweight, you barely feel its presence on the supplied green nato strap. Like I said, the best affordable chronograph for small wrists.
Price: For $100 on AliX? It’s arguably on the same level of value-for-money as the Vostok’s. 10/10 for me here, no complaints.